“The specificity of what we do is what I’m definitely into,” says Michael Kardamakis, founder of Endyma, the fashion archive with the world’s premier assortment of Helmut Lang. The archive focuses on merchandise by different designers through the ’90s and ’00s, but its cornerstone is the cult Austrian designer — and Kardamakis has 1,650 of his parts, to be specific. “Every detail counts — he’s so deliberate and very little is left to opportunity,” he suggests.
Having begun off as an on the internet reseller, Kardamakis turned his in depth collection into what it is nowadays: a place for safekeeping uncommon parts of style historical past and an crucial useful resource for up to date makes. “Iconic styles can be employed as a basis for great new items,” states the 28-year-previous. “Now, we predominantly do the job as a consultancy, offering raw components for trend properties to build new get the job done with.”
Endyma — Greek for ‘garment’ — was set up in Kardamakis’s hometown of Athens right before he moved to Berlin in 2020. All through this year’s Reference Festival in the German funds, some of the most essential Helmut Lang pieces ended up exhibited in the Reference Studios showroom. The archive also specialises in other equally influential labels, such as Raf Simons, Miu Miu menswear, Rick Owens and Burberry Prorsum.
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Listed here, Kardamakis discusses his really like of Helmut Lang, the worth of having treatment of your apparel, and why the style process needs a reboot.
Exactly where does your curiosity in vogue arrive from?
“I bought into manner when I was finding out artwork historical past at the College of East Anglia, Norwich, and I was usually making an attempt to integrate present-day trend into my degree. I wrote essays on denims and my dissertation was about the way Ann Demeulemeester cuts her jackets.”
What acquired you into accumulating clothes?
“I produced dollars for the duration of my diploma as a reseller and I was learning as I went together about craftsmanship and specifics. I bought into Helmut Lang in 2011, when no just one cared about ’90s minimalism. A pair of many years following graduating and launching my web-site, I experienced an appointment with a designer from a major trend household and they questioned if I did rentals. Due to the fact then, it’s turned into a authentic archive.”
The place do you supply your items?
“We glance in all places. If we know there’s a rock, we’re heading to look less than it. As well as, folks just discover me on Google — they deliver me e-mails and direct messages. And we do trades with people today I know personally. We get about just one new detail a working day.”
Helmut Lang spring/summer time 1998.
© Man Marineau
What do you look for in particular?
“I’m fixated on finishing selected collections and teams of objects, as perfectly as acquiring lesser acknowledged garments. In Helmut Lang’s function, the grails are apparent — every person knows the legendary pieces. But for my work as an archivist, these parts are a useless finish — they are way too popular and recognisable to be used as uncooked materials for new get the job done.”
What draws in you to Helmut Lang?
“His function, in quite a few strategies, is strange, as the large bulk of it is not quite ‘designed’. He has an archetypal tactic — his fits are the textbook definition of a accommodate with the squareness and typical proportions. He’s obsessive about tradition, but then he does 50 percent a sleeve in a unique colour and minds are blown.”
“The specificity of what we do is what I’m genuinely into,” states collector and curator Michael Kardamakis.
© Courtesy of ENDYMA
Which are your favourite goods?
“Noughties moments are very iconic. Also his early denim jackets, of which I have a thorough assortment in every and every variation. I am fairly into the early Helmut Lang Denims shirts, which is what Raf Simons’ Calvin Klein challenge was mainly centered on.”
Apart from Helmut Lang, who are your favourite designers?
“Right now, the function of Dirk Bikkembergs up right until 1999. Costume Nationwide right before 2001. I have also been receiving some Japanese knitwear makes, these as FICCE, who make ornate knits. Classic Burberry from the early to mid-’80s, way too.”
When do you contemplate garments to be an expense?
“Obviously, some thing that is recognisable is a good investment decision in the feeling that it’s a piece that has a situation in the background of style and design. I am also creating my very own proposals, to uncover new price the place persons really don’t see it.”
Helmut Lang spring/summertime 2004.
© PIERRE VERDY
What can make a designer deserving of cult status?
“Consistency is very important in turning a designer’s output into something legendary. This requires energy, tolerance and obsession, which in flip types a extensive narrative. Some thing that has been examined by time and somehow is still great soon after 20 yrs, that truly legitimises it and, in my watch, tends to make it cult.”
Why is there a lot more emphasis on using care of your outfits and obtaining secondhand now?
“Well, for just one issue, I could not afford a new higher-trend item acquiring secondhand was a gateway into this earth. Nowadays, the fashion program is broken and its costs are much too substantial. There is certainly so considerably new product coming in, it feels like we are just spiralling out of regulate.”
What do you hope for the future of style?
“I desire that manner homes made a third of what they make and invested more in their statement alternatively of hoping to make every little thing for every person with a different acquire every period. This [obsession with] traits — it can be a rat race, and it can be pointless.”
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